The King of Them All!

Volume 3

June 23, 2010

            It has come to my attention that many folks seem to have some incorrect predispositions about urethane bowling balls. I've seen everything from complaints that urethane balls currently on the market aren't true "urethane" to sentiments that releases like the Storm Natural have been duds in terms of anything from reaction to sales. These incorrect notions need to be addressed and addressing tough and sensitive issues is something yours truly will not shy away from.

UNDERSTANDING URETHANE

            The primary thing one must understand when addressing public misconceptions about urethane is the public perception of urethane. The number of folks I hear complaining that there urethane hooks too quickly would boggle the mind. The number of folks I have heard that complain about the pin carry of their urethane ball is also a bit higher than it should be. The problem? People, even many pro shop professionals, either don't understand or don't remember the reaction characteristics of urethane equipment. People have been trying to throw them like they're simply weaker reactive equipment, when they're nothing like that at all. Reactive equipment, by nature, tends to create more of a skid/flip ball reaction- it tends to retain more energy for the back part of the lane. Urethane, however, tends to hook quite early. It can be startling if you're not expecting it. As a result, even high quality tournament players often attempt to try to force their urethane bowling balls down the lane further by moving their eyes into heavier oiled parts of the lane (further toward the middle on a house shot), upping their ball speeds or weakening their hand positions, amongst other adjustments, in an attempt to make the ball look like what they expect a ball to look like as it travels down the lane. It's understandable, if it doesn't "gel" with what you're used to, you're going to try to make it. That, however, is a big mistake. If you start to over-project a urethane ball, you will be staring at a whole lot of washouts and flat corner pins. The difference in type of reaction (along with general wear and tear) has even had a profound impact on accepted teachings in both physical bowling games and in ball fitting, however that's another topic for another day.

            So what to do? Rule number 1 of throwing a urethane ball- let it start early. It may look weird to you at first, but getting the ball started earlier than your reactive equipment is a must. Often times it will start as much as 10-15 feet earlier! The difference between reactive and urethane bowling balls is clear once you let this happen a couple of times- a reactive ball starting in the same spot as most urethane balls do will inevitably overreact, probably will jump through the face (or further) and be completely out of energy when it gets to the pins (resulting in "roll-out"), while the urethane ball simply rolls off the same spot in a more gentle manner and continues through the pin deck (usually- no ball is 100% predictable and perfect). This change in reaction shape (from the reactive skid/flip to the urethane gentle arc) will also affect your pin carry- we are all used to getting those strikes that hit the pocket on the "light" side and scatter the deck around like a bunch of dominos falling into oblivion, but the urethane ball isn't nearly as likely to carry those. They'll often result "retro" leaves that we aren't as accustomed to seeing anymore (for right-handers)- the 5-7, the 8-10, the 5-10 and a much higher frequency of weak-hitting or "flat" 10 pins. In contrast, the reactive ball is likely to leave pins on a high or high-flush shot, such as the 4 pin, the 4-9, the pocket 8 or the pocket 9, due to its retention of more energy and less deflection. In contrast, the urethane will often deflect enough on those shots to carry the strike. It's truly a retro look, from foul line to pin deck.

            You may even find yourself having more success moving your eyes further towards the dry parts of the lane (further towards the gutter on a house shot) when throwing urethane in order to help promote that earlier reading ball reaction (you know, the one that scares most folks away) even further. This is especially important on patterns that require people to play further towards the outside part of the lane even if that isn't their "A" game (say folks with high rev rates and medium to low ball speeds, like myself), such as the PBA's Cheetah pattern or Kegel's Boardwalk pattern. These patterns often reward reactions that don't have a lot of "pop" to them by increasing carry percentages, so getting the ball to expel a little more energy a little earlier is a must and, while urethane balls help to accomplish that, more effort is often needed to help to accomplish energy expulsion more efficiently.

            Another common misconception is that urethane balls are solely for "dry" lanes. Realistically, when the lanes are dry, the biggest challenge involves getting the ball to clear the front part of the lane cleanly and recover enough on the back part of the lane in order to carry all 10 pins on a pocket shot. That sounds an awful lot like a job for a reactive ball- and not always even a weaker reactive ball. I can't tell you how many tournaments I have participated in where I have progressed to stronger and stronger equipment as the lanes dry out, with the intention of following the ball track further towards the heavier oiled parts of the lane (usually towards the middle part of the lane), while seeking enough backend reaction to carry. Urethane is at its best when trying to smooth out a ball reaction when the friction creates a "jumpy" move off of the dry. It is also a good look when the lanes are spotty (say bowling after a bunch of folks who used bumpers), as less board coverage on the lane means less variables to encounter and an earlier ball motion will lessen the effect of the variables it does encounter as well. Urethane is a great tool for people who often see overtly "jumpy" ball reactions due to their physical games as well. With my high rev rate and strong type of roll in combination with my lowish ball speed, getting the ball not to over react too much is often times a challenge- a challenge often answered with urethane or creative layouts, such as the Boomer layout (another conversation for another day as well).

ARE MY URETHANES TRULY URETHANE? HOW MANY PEOPLE CHOOSE URETHANE?

            So you have gone into your local pro shop and they've pointed out the latest urethane ball- the Roto Grip Grenade. You hop onto the internet to do your research- but all these folks on the forums are saying that it isn't urethane..... What gives? The answer is simple, you can't believe everything you read on the internet (but you can believe me, I promise). The tough part about this industry is that almost anyone that doesn't view themselves as a complete novice views themselves as an expert (and before I get 8 million emails claiming to be an exception, I do realize that there are people who don't view themselves as a novice nor an expert- congratulations, you're probably in the small percentage of folks that have themselves accurately pegged). On a daily basis I see folks saying things on internet forums that are either nonsensical or just plain wrong. It isn't rocket science. If you watch balls like the Storm Natural or Roto Grip Grenade roll, they're clearly a different breed of ball than a Tropical Storm or a Dark Star- they're definitely urethane. They definitely offer something different than reactive balls and definitely have a firm place in today's marketplace. I can't, however, speak for other brands. If you want to know whether their urethanes are true urethane or not, just ask them. No ball manufacturer has anything to hide from you in terms of their product line. Their ultimate goal is to keep you happy and bowling, that way, whether you pick up their product now or not, you are in position to consume some of their products later. For that reason, all of them are going to help you make the most informed decisions possible (as should your local pro shop operator).

            I'm not going to pretend that I have the sales numbers for the Grenade or the Natural right in front of me, but I do have a short story for you. It was approximately 2 years prior to the release of the Storm Natural. I remember talking to a few of our favorite Storm/Roto higher-ups about how badly we needed a true urethane ball in the line. The concept was met with some skepticism. The natural order of things is to make bowling balls progressively stronger and stronger, because that's usually what Joe Bowler demands, so you can imagine why releasing a ball that theoretically is a regression in technology would be thought of as a bad idea (but going retro isn't always a bad idea, I mean, who wouldn't want a stylish Mac Classic with its 6 inch black and white screen sitting on their desk top a home....). I'm not narcissistic enough to believe that I was the only person asking for such things at the time, nor am I arrogant enough to believe that they made the Natural solely to please me, as ball manufacturers are in the business of selling bowling balls, not pleasing folks like me. That being said, the powers that be assured me that this ball, while filling a great need in the line, was not going to be something that was a big seller (again, Joe Bowler demands more hook right?). Within weeks of its release I received a report back from the same powers that be, claiming that in roughly a month the sales of that ball had exceeded what they might have projected for around a year or so. My point is simple- no, it may not sell like the latest and greatest. It's not a Cell or a Mutant Cell, but it has a distinct and definite share of the marketplace and is here to stay. Claiming that the Natural was a dud in terms of sales is incorrect. If it were, why would the Grenade have followed? Why would Roto go out of their way to produce a similar ball in terms of cover, but a different "lope" in the ball reaction (due to the core)? If urethane were an industry dud, the Grenade certainly wouldn't have happened, nor would other manufacturers try to release competing product.

DO I NEED A URETHANE BALL? HOW SHOULD I DRILL MY URETHANE BALL?

It is true, urethane is not for everyone. Equipment, as it has improved, has also become increasingly specialized. In turn, higher speed players (especially those with lower rev rates) may see no need for a urethane ball in their arsenal. Folks who only bowl at one house and have games that match up in a manner in which they find it difficult to get any ball to hook should probably ignore urethane. Folks who bowl at houses with beat up lane beds- like possibly wood lanes, older AMF HPL surfaces or Guardian may see a great benefit to having urethane in their bags. Tournament bowlers may even see owning a urethane ball as a near necessity given the fact that you likely will never know what you may encounter from center to center. Folks interested in bowling sport/PBA Experience leagues may see urethane as an important addition to their arsenal (I know I can't live without my Grenade on Cheetah or Chameleon anymore). Urethane balls have been welcomed additions to the arsenals of many senior bowlers and also players that have seen a reduction in ball speed due to injury or surgery- my father averaged over 250 with his urethane ball for the first 50 games or so within roughly a year of having major elbow surgery.

Everyone is different. Everyone has a different style of bowling just like everyone has a different style of swing in baseball or golf. I cannot give you a magic layout that will make every urethane ball roll great for everyone. What I can say is this- a wise man and PBA professional named Mitch Beasley once told me something that stuck, "You determine what a ball is designed to do and you drill it to do the opposite, that way it is more versatile." Yes, sometimes you want to use exotic drillings on bowling balls in order to hit a specific pattern, but realistically most folks are not going to go out and buy a ball for every pattern they encounter (although I'm sure no ball manufacturer would argue if you did, Roto Grip offers a nice product line and you're likely already on their website if you're reading this... hint hint). As a result, I find it to be very beneficial to follow this rule. We know urethane tends to be weaker, but earlier rolling and extremely smooth. My suggestion is to request layouts and surface preparations on your urethane ball that will promote length and recovery in order to balance out some of the tendencies of urethane. This will allow you a ball reaction that is a little more familiar and a little more usable on a larger variety of conditions. If you approach your local pro shop professional with such a request, I'm sure they will help you fulfill it (assuming you fit in the category that should be considering urethane to begin with). If they are unwilling and/or unwilling to explain why they are unwilling (try to say that 5 times fast), then it may be time to find a new pro shop professional to work with. Why? It's simple- The return of urethane is the greatest return since Return of the Jedi. Write that down.

Got a question, concern or just want to issue a verbal tongue lashing? Jason can be reached at jasondhoff@gmail.com.